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Lady Dana 44 in 2014 Northwest Passage
On the evening of Friday 1 August, I arrived by plane from Vancouver, the entire expedition crew was already complete on the yacht moored in the port of Nome, Alaska. The boat had cruised for two months from Vancouver with rotating tourist crews through the waters of Canada to the Inside Passage of Alaska. The next day on Saturday, we had to make final preparations and shopping because on Sunday we planned to be under way. The weather forecast was promising but unfortunately only for the first two days.
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Crew: Lady Dana 44. Top left – Jerzy Kuśmider, Captain Richard Wojnowski, Jerzy Beer, Andrzej Mizger. Bottom left – Daniel Michalski, Józef Garczarczyk, Lech Romanowski |
The Bering Strait
3 August at 16.00 we cast
off the mooring ropes. After passing Nome port heads, all remaining worries were
behind us. We were now facing only one goal, crossing the Northwest Passage. A
few miles from Nome, we were approached by the US Coast Guard patrol and we
received the command to slow down. Three armed officers skillfully jumped on
board "Lady Dana 44". The rest of them were photographing and filming
our yacht. Those who came on board acted very officially, while at the same
time being friendly. The officers were very young people, among them was one
nice looking woman. They checked the documents of both the yacht and the crew
and some of the equipment. Generally, a
sociable conversation developed. It appeared that their inspection our yacht
was for them an attractive detachment from everyday boring service. The question
of how many yachts visited Nome during the year, the officer replied about
five. During a break in the official audit was talk about Poland. It turned out
the lady officer visited Warsaw and has some distant family ties with our
country. After the inspection by the US Coast Guard, the officers returned to
their patrol boat and wished us success waving their hands in a nice gesture.
We were not aware of earlier Search and Rescue conducted by USCG icebreaker “Healy” on July 10th. A Canadian boat “Altan Girl” from Vancouver had ventured much too early in the season into the heavy ice loosing control of the helm North of Point Barrow. They towed beset “Altan Girl” into Elson Lagoon just NE of Point Barrow where she stayed for the following 10 days until the ice eased off. So the event probably was the cause of our inspection because USCG was getting nervous.
In the beginning, our sailing was gentle
under engine power into a light breeze. Unfortunately, the forecasts were not
so optimistic. In two days we were expecting winds over 30 knots from the
North-East. For us, that meant storming into the wind, but we tried not to
think about it. Somehow we may be able
to hide somewhere along the way.
At this latitude, the sun was shining under
a low angle and blinding our eyes. At midnight, when I finished my watch, the
sun was setting just a bit and hiding behind the clouds on the horizon. It's a
good thing, as above my bunk I had a small bullseye window and sun was not
blinding me. Around 2 in the morning it was dusk, so to say, it was grey, but the
night was advancing fast. All Alaska has one time zone and we were far to the
West in the Bering Strait, separating the two continents, through which passes
the International Dateline.
A little reflection on the organization of
life on board:
The boat itself is a very important issue.
"Lady Dana 44" was very well equipped, but point that we were sailing
on one of the most challenging sailing routes in the world left me with a lot
of respect for the sea ahead and what could happen.
All the crew had a very good sailing
experience and qualifications, including 4 qualified masters and as well very
competent remaining crew. On board, there was an interesting organization
setup. Unusual and rare on yachts. Simply there was no distinction between
functions and there were no appointed officers. Only were three constant
watches of two crew members. Les and I had watch from 20:00 to 24:00 and during
the day from 8:00 to 12:00. There was no need to do any list of changing watch
hours, because everyone knew when his watch was. There was also no galley
watch. Les, who liked cooking had the opportunity to show his talent in this
area and the rest of the crew helped, without specific orders and disposals. If
there was something to do that you had to do and no one watched the one or the
another.
At the first maritime dinner Les served us
steaks, as in the best restaurants with a question to each of us how to be
done? Clean up after without a problem,
the crew hands without any hesitation to work.
Arctic Circle
4 August at 10:00 we traversed Cape Prince of Wales to the starboard, the
westernmost point of North America. On the port side, we had two islands: a
tiny Little Diomede belonging to US and next to it a large Big Diomede. Even
here the Russian proverb says: "Bolshoye Samoye." We kept close to
the US shore. In the afternoon, we got closer to the Arctic Circle. On board
began to prepare for so decisive moment. At the beginning, we had to survey
crew asking, who for the first time would be crossing this specific parallel. Equatorial baptisms are known for novices,
but polar baptism, maybe due to the significantly smaller number of sailors in
the Arctic, are little known. In the past “Frozen nose” or “Blue nose” was
known while not much observed and it is more related to the Canadian historical
fishing Schooner “Blue Nose” seen on ¢ 10 Canadian coin.
It turned out that two of our crew never
crossed Polar Circle before. Although I was above the Polar circle, but not on
yacht only hitching in Finland, in the old days. This was not recognized by the
rest and I could only guess what attractions are being prepared. Heard, it
supposed to be a concoction, not to drink. We watched the GPS, on which it was
showing digits of latitude. Finally showed up magic latitude! (66 deg. 33.7
minutes North latitude). We crossed the Arctic Circle. First there was the
toast, for two of us, neophytes, drink a specially prepared, of course, not
true drink. Although a small shot of vodka, but with Tabasco and who knows what
else. For years now I didn't drink any alcohol, but on this occasion, I tried
to wet the tongue. I actually could not drink, but managed to bribe the good
Neptune with overboard shot content to accept me in the Arctic. Well, it
happened, probably because after drinking I would be the "chairman",
that is to say the first elderly patients to get sea sickness during the sea
voyage. After this toast, Richard brought on board a rifle, which was on the
yacht for safety if the polar bears want to attack us in the Arctic. This time the
rifle was handy to bloodless celebration at so important moment. Each in turn
fired up the vivat. We have seen that caliber was suitable for wild animal,
because after each shot our eardrums were not accustomed to such noise rather
to wind and waves.
After this celebration, life on-board got back to a normal routine. Watch on board were looking after how and where to sail. There was no need to steer manually, because the autopilot was doing it better. Sails did not need attention, as the engine in these conditions did better and we were sailing at a speed of more than 5 knots. The rest of the crew had the time to read many magazines brought on board from Poland. Meanwhile, this idyllic situation on board, you can say "calm before the storm" existed. We knew for sure Northwest Passage in ice will not be so. I observed an interesting phenomenon, as the sun during the day revolved around us. At this latitude, in June, it was a complete turn without hiding behind the horizon, but in August to watch such a phenomenon, you would have to take even a few more degrees of latitude North.
Day after day, storm and fight for every mile
After two days of calm weather GRIB
forecast website didn’t look inviting. We passed the Point Hope, the last
“hope" for us, it meant the place where we were still able to hide
ourselves from the Northeastern Storm. Richard called using VHF radio a tugboat
pulling the barges nearby, thinking that they might know some more about local
weather conditions and ice. Nothing more said than what we knew already. During
nice conversation, only what they suggested a withdrawal to Point Hope. There
was a little sense, because we will lose too much time and there was no
guarantee, what would be next, and besides the storm of 8º Beaufort scale to
survive. Our caller after hearing about our plans of navigation expressed their
opinion in English astonishment and appreciation "O boy!, O boy! “ Shortly after, the tug from the barge came
close to us and cut us. Probably wanted to see us up close.
On approaching storm, we changed the large
Genoa for Jib, which works better in difficult conditions and better rolls on
the roller, as its smaller and made of stronger material.
The next day, it started ... First, the
sun, which had circled around the horizon hid behind the clouds. The wind began
to intensify. A little closer to the shore, we had smaller waves, and then
another tack and again on the exposed sea, we were doing short zigzags after
more than a dozen nautical miles, we were close hauled against the wind to
eight degrees on Beaufort scale, at times a little weaker to six, again to show
what it means to navigation above Arctic Circle and so unchanged over next
three days. We were sailing on a very reduced storm jib with the help of an
engine. It gave us a chance to slowly inch forward.
The air temperature dropped to 2ºC. Waves
were swelling the entire deck. The most troublesome was pitching the waves with
the hull giving the impression as if a steel yacht was about to fall apart, but
"Lady Dana 44" was not giving up. More and more assuring, it was a
very strong yacht and I felt secure on top of it. It was a big comfort. What
most annoys sailors in this region is low temperature. On the "Lady Dana
44" we had three thermometers. The first was outside air, around 0ºC, the
second in the "vestibule" under steel dodger covered with canvas and
soft glazing, where alleged usually about 8ºC. Inside the cabin of the boat was
steaming 18°C.
During usual deck watch, there was no need to freeze in the wind, it was enough to occasionally get out of the dodger and adjust sails. When later ice brash and ice fields were showing, it was not the place of warmth. Point Barrow the northernmost point of Alaska turned out to be very difficult for us to win. Opposing currents at times to 3 knots, spinning from different directions and wind surge defended this point on the route to the Northwest Passage.
On Arctic Ocean, storm, cold, ice and fog
9
August, at 8 am, we finally succeeded to change
course due East. This was not easy, because we had to tack into the wind again,
but it was already relaxing compared to the past few days. By contrast,
temperatures dropped to zero. Even in the sun it was cold and during the watch
it was necessary to dress warmly, including gloves. In the afternoon, we
encountered first ice brash and floes. During the sunny, but freezing weather
we were able to steer clear, with only minimal change to the course.
10 August, we were already more than 100 Nm East of Point Barrow. It was beautiful sunny morning, but in the Arctic, everything can change very quickly. Soon we went into fog with limited visibility. In such fog, it's hard to find consequent ice. Fogging dodger windows limited visibility, so to see better, had to get outside.
Some ice floes, bigger than the hull of the
yacht were seen quite late, but I was still able to get past them. In such a
situation came to mind different thoughts, the most important of them was sub
conscious that I am alone and penetrating with my eye sight the dangerous ice,
and there inside, in the warmth are six colleagues, whose security depends on
my skills. We went into very shallow waters to a depth of 6 to 7 mtr. where it was much less ice, because the
bigger ice pieces were grounded. What you see above the water is only about one
tenth of the volume of the entire ice size.
Ahead of us were showing a built on
artificial offshore islands drilling platforms, at which the oil is extracted.
To one such we approached very close and all of our crew went to the cockpit to
watch and photograph such things. After a week of not seeing the mainland up
close and it was interesting for us. Then we passed the next platform, but not
with such interest. In this region oil is pumped and the pipeline routes over
1000 km through the entire Alaska diverts to the port of Valdez. A quarter of a
century ago, there was a big oil spill disaster of "Exxon Valdez". A
huge amount of oil was spilled into the waters of Prince William Sound,
resulting in a large environmental pollution. I've been there on my yacht
"Varsovia" 10 years ago or 15 years after the disaster, and even in
some places you could still see the effects of this disaster.
In shallow and smooth waters, we sailed
like on the wings, close hauled to the wind using only small jib with help of
the engine. Speed was above 7 knots which meant more than depth accounted in
meters.
On the port side, we passed another series of small islands and on the starboard the shore. Further use of the shallows free from ice was difficult. It was too shallow, we did turn, and we went to deeper waters. At 24:00 we passed the port of Cross Island, where Polish yachts “Nekton” and "Stary" (NWP 2006) stopped. The situation was similar for us, as we went into the ice field. They were sailing west after the passages of the Canadian NWP archipelago and we were at this point much earlier in the season on the way to the Canadian Archipelago.
First Anchoring
11
August, Night vision was somewhat limited, but
during the day it was much better to navigate in the ice, so after midnight, we
anchored under the cover of Narwhal Island, 10 Nm to the SE of Cross Island. It
was pleasant to sleep in and relax. Anchor watch had their hands full because
it was necessary to repel the ice accumulating between the anchor chain and the
steel hull of the yacht. Next morning, we slept in and ate brunch, followed
with a small maintenance and fuel transfer. Daniel got onto the mast to see the
ice situation. His findings were optimistic and we continued.
As beautiful sunny weather emerged it was
easier to maneuver between the ice floes, but that was not always the case as
we had a few times where small brash of ice jabbed the hull of the boat. On the
outside was pretty cold, a little over zero degrees, while most of us were
sitting in the cockpit and watched with interest the boat maneuvering between
ice. At times, the ice was pretty dense so we used a bow thruster which was
helpful. Meanwhile, the "Lady Dana 44" negotiated further a field of
ice. It reminded me of sailing 6 months earlier in French Polynesia. So distant
corners of the world, different climate and other sailing, but you can find a
lot of similarities. There the Islands are surrounded by a coral reef, forming
a natural breakwater from destroying by ocean and here are the ice fields doing
the same. Breaking Arctic waves pushed by currents gets large brash to ground
at the shoals at some distance from the shore. This creates a tranquil sailing
in the smooth water between the shore and the large grounded ice, like a reef
in the Polynesian lagoon. Very similar, but at the different temperature of the
water. There was nearly 30 ºC more and the water temperature here was at the
freezing point. At Point Barrow was even below zero, that is, should freeze in
accordance with the physics . There was even a suggestion to see if it's true,
and we wanted to make a test, plunge a bottle of fresh water to sea water
overboard and see if it freezes.
Maneuvering in the Arctic ice "reef", after a while we emerged out into the open water and the boat clearly started jumping up and down on the waves boosted by Easterly winds. Hence more tacking again into the wind from hour to hour getting stronger to force 7º Beaufort, at times falling to show again the weather in the Arctic.
End of Alaska, we are in Canada
12 August. At night, we passed 141-degree West longitude, which marks the border of the United States and Canada called Demarcation Line.
13
August. In the morning, Les mounted Canadian flag
under the right spreader meaning we all are conforming to Canadian laws and we
have taken the course pointing to the distant yet about 150 Nm away, Canadian
harbour Tuktoyaktuk, where we supposed to get border clearance. The winds were
very weak and all day we proceeded using only engine. Approaching to the mouth
of the Mackenzie River, the water temperature increased, up to 8ºC. For this
reason, there was a stir and joy on the boat. Not only because we were willing
to dip in the "warm water", but that we will be able to turn on the
desalination of the sea water, which at temperature of sea water below 2ºC
produces not very tasty salty water.
We had plenty of water in our tanks, but we were not sure how long it would last and also when we would get an opportunity to fill the tanks again. When washing dishes, we mainly used cold overboard water, only with a small addition of fresh warm water for final rise. On board, there was a normal bathroom with shower, but also a bit limiting basking in this luxury. On this occasion, all lined up in a queue to shower, to use the old water from the tanks to free up space for the crystal clear water of desalination. Reverse Osmosis desalination was working with performance 70 l/hour quickly filling all boat tanks.
Tuktoyaktuk
14
August, we approached the entrance to Tuktoyaktuk
Harbour, which is located in a bay with shallow waters, it was necessary to
steer clear of any unexpected obstructions. It turned out that the entrance to
the harbour was very well marked with buoys and range beacons. Buoys are only
placed for a short navigational summer period, because for most of the year the
whole sea is covered with a thick layer of ice. I used the radio to contact the
harbour. My question about the current conditions in the harbour, where it is
possible to cast anchor, border clearance, etc., were not answered. We failed
our first attempt to moor as it looked we were not welcome.
We found a small pier next to the fuel
station, which in turn we couldn't berth to as it was too shallow there.
Eventually we dropped the anchor and with stern we got to the dock. For the
first time, in North America the gangway came in handy, constantly equipped on
"Lady Dana 44". In Europe, this is a typical way of mooring to docks
in crowded ports, but rarely used in America.
The first thing to do after arrival in a
new country is border clearance. For me, it was getting back to my country, as
my home is in Vancouver more than 2,500 km away. For this reason, Richard has
appointed me as a "local resident" to find ways, so I went to the
village. Normally the clearance in the ports is handled by the immigration
authorities and customs, but so far away in the periphery, all of these tasks
are handled by federal police the RCMP. Going into the empty street, I met the
first people at the building of the local radio station "CFCT
Tuktoyaktuk”. A pleasant lady at the radio station who called police and said
joking to me to get back to the boat, “because as soon as you arrive the police
will handcuff you”, showing a gesture with her hands.
A very nice young policewoman arrived. She was fully armed with all the accessories,
but without the handcuffs. She took our passports and documents. After that she
took me on a tour in her car around the town, and showed me where the police
station is. We had to report there next
day to complete our clearance. On the way back to the yacht, she showed me some
important spots in town. She said that much of a problem in the town is the
alcohol. It is not prohibited, but is
subject to restrictions. You cannot buy it normally in the store. You have to
order its delivery with some kind of permit. All buildings in the village are
made of wood. Most are single family dwellings.
There are also some government buildings, city hall, , cultural center,
clinic, hospital, sports field with small stands, and a few shops. All the
buildings are without basements, but built on piles that elevate entrances
since in the winter there is a lot of snow.
At any public building, there is a sign to
remove the shoes and leave them at the entrance. Around many residential homes,
you will see a big mess. There is old
equipment, junk, and remnants of northerly supplies with which the locals do
not know what to do.
Next to the dock, to which we moored are historical "Inuit houses" it’s not an Igloo, but dwellings made of earth, wood, and peat moss. Now in the state of permanent erosion, but represent an interesting open-air museum and an example of how people used to live here. The vegetation is very poor, no trees, and everywhere you can see only the bare ground. The terrain is flat with a lot of lakes and lagoons. The streets are very wide, so in the winter, there is enough place for snow removal. Only the main street Beaufort has improved surface, the rest are gravel roads. Local cemetery is not well maintained. Interesting sight, were flowers on the graves. They were covered with plastic bags, to make them last longer in the cold weather and wind.
15
August, the second day in Tuktoyaktuk. Stay in port
was supposed to be short, but as it happens in sailing, you can never plan
exactly. We needed to refuel about 700 liters. If there was a marine fuel
station at the dock that would take us a little time to refuel. The local
mobile-type station is located only about 100 yards from the dock where we were
berthed, but filling up turned out to be complicated procedure. First we had to
fill the canisters at the pump, then carry them to the dock by means of borrowed
cart, then lowering them onto the gangway, and then pouring to boat’s tanks.
Just pouring took a lot of time. In order not to accidentally spill fuel on
deck, we used sucking tube from a canister. It was a slow process and we didn’t
make it in time before the fuel station closed.
It wasn’t just the fuel that was holding us up. The weather again was unfavorable. In
addition, border clearance also took longer, because local police station
contacted distant headquarters thousands of miles away for its clarification,
as a result it could not been done that day so we had to wait until the next
day for some final official papers. In the meantime, I decided to connect to
the Internet. On board we have satellite Internet, but for obvious reasons we
were limited in its use, due to the cost and size of sent files. Some cell
phones here are working with local provider, there are no Internet café type
places in the pub or hotel which are typically found in other parts of the
world to connect to the network. In one place, I managed to find a public
network with an unlocked password and I could log on using Skype. In this way,
I sent a report to Poland with photos and I could talk to the world, but I had
problems with other parties and email. I
visited many places in my search for a better connection to the internet. Everywhere the same i.e. the net only for
official government usage and they didn’t want to give me the password for the
login.
In this town search, I came across a
senior’s home, very nice building, warm and cozy inside, but no Internet. There
I met a friendly police woman from RCMP, who the previous day conducted our
border clearance. I told her about my problems with the net and she suggested
to me to see a few places. She invited
me to drive around a few places, but to no avail, because everything was
closed. I was very surprised by her kindness, but I wondered if her duty of
patrolling the town and talking to me was more interesting than her routine
work. She was just under impression that they had a ‘tenant’ under arrest,
which rarely happens in this small town of just over a thousand inhabitants. I
asked why he was in jail? It turned out just for being drunk and in order for
him to not come to harm, and for him to stay warm… he was locked into custody. Alcoholism is the main problem in the town.
As the conversation continued on subject of crime, I found that crime rate is
low in this town. According to
policewoman, residents are not aggressive toward visitors but problems do exist
between residents from time to time. Actually, the local population looked
friendly. A lot of people passing on the street said Hello and wanted to talk.
After this trip in police car she got me back to where "Lady Dana 44"
was docked earlier but moored yacht wasn’t there. Only Daniel was standing on the dock. He was vigorously waving his hands to the
stationary yacht at anchor some distance away.
As it turned out, a strong wind emerged,
anchor in the muddy bottom did not hold and boat moored with its stern
dangerously nearing the dock. Richard decided on a quick retreat from the dock.
During maneuvers Daniel could not jump on board and was left on the dock.
Colleagues on board began to prepare the dinghy to bring us onto the yacht.
Increasing wind to 8 on a Beaufort scale, even in a sheltered harbour water
caused short and high waves and for our little zodiac it would be difficult to
cross. Together with Daniel we went to find someone local who has a boat
available on shore, to ask for transport to the yacht. I had some doubts as to
whether anyone will be willing to help us in this windy weather. It turned out
that the friendly inhabitants were willing and fairly quickly we were
transported to our yacht on a large aluminum boat. For the kindness of appreciation to our two carriers,
we rewarded them in the traditional way we rewarded them with... used on such
occasions in many parts of the world.
After we got back on the boat the wind increased more and more, reaching force 9. For safety, we weighted the anchor and we moved to more sheltered place. The color of the sky was red. It was as someone poured the blood of all the sailors who died over the years in their attempt of the Northwest Passage. Outside the wind surge was blowing and inside boat was nice and warm. To "cool down", we decided to watch a movie on our big screen. It was about French Polar yacht “Vagabond” sailing on our route in 2003. Particularly chilling in the veins was professionally shot footage of the yacht trapped in ice. Aware that in a few days we will be in the same places, an added respect for the Arctic emerged.
16 August the wind abated and we moored again to the dock and concluded loading fuel. At 17:05 we casted off the mooring lines and at the same time we weighed the anchor. For the first several miles was quite pleasant, because we sailed under cover of the shores, but then we went into more open water. Again began tacking into the wind. Weather forecasts predicted stormy winds in the next 24 hours. In order not to waste time, we wanted to advance about 100 Nm to Cape Bathurst and possibly there we could wait out the storm at anchor.
Another Storm, after which the sun shines
17 August, unfortunately tacking all day pulled us slow and the storm caught us before Cape Bathurst. We had no choice but sailing with short tacks and storming forward.
August 18, there were no major changes. Wind force of 7° B with gusts even more. Slowly we were gaining every mile. In the evening, it began to fade. GRIB forecast in several hours was showing feeble winds, even changing to more beneficial, but we had to sail there gaining every bit to be behind Cape Parry.
19
August, in the morning I slept extremely well in my
bunk. As usual at 8 in the morning, I was to start my watch, usually I woke on
my own, or have not slept, because it was not always possible on the stormy
waves. The worst were the strong slamming of the yacht against falling waves,
so strongly, that was knocking me off my bunk first, then falling all the time.
Depending on the side closer to either tack or being pushed on the apron on the
other side.
This time we were in smooth waters, and I
was sleeping so well that the previous watch group had to wake me up to take
over.
On board but specifically in a sheltered dodger, was very pleasant watch, the heat and sun shine added extra charm to the sailing. Outside, temperature rose to nearly 9°C and under the cover of dodger thermometer was showing even more than 20°C. Keeping in mind that we are very far North off Arctic Circle, the navigation can be determined, as in the tropics. The temperature of the water, too, has increased to more than 6°C, that is to say, that our desalinator could again produce good water. Again, set the queue to the shower. Washing dishes in hot water was a great satisfaction. For the first time in this trip we raised the main sail. In the cockpit we lifted off the rear screen of the dodger, which rarely happens, but this time it was not just the watch who sat on deck. For the next days, forecast was more favorable, but we still had another 400 Nm to Cambridge Bay.
20
August, The whole day was a great sailing, for the
first time under full sails. Moderate wind blowing first from broad reach and
then changed direction to the full run, that is, from the stern, but
unfortunately weakening. We rolled the jib and with the help of engine to keep
proper speed we sailed in the right direction for us.
We still had more than 200 Nm of ice free
waters to Cambridge Bay, even further until the Gjoa Haven, according to the
information, there was no ice. We were worried of solid ice ahead of passage.
In earlier talks with Victor Wejer from Toronto we knew that several boats
already withdrawn from crossing the Northwest Passage this year.
We tried not discuss too loud the topic,
because each of us knew what it meant, not fulfilling the purpose of our trip
and what's next ? Leave the yacht wintering in Cambridge Bay? Return to
Vancouver via Alaska, which soon will close the path, not to mention the
sailing in the North Pacific storms? It was difficult to think about it, but I
think each of us in his own way thought about these things. Despite this some
optimistic mood prevailed with the crew that ice will ease off.
In the afternoon, Richard called Victor
Wejer, who gave a very optimistic message that ice is easing in critical
straits and beginning to slowly let in and the possibility of crossing. In a
week, when we will be there the ice situation should improve. This message
filled us with hope and I guess, therefore, improved our mood.
On board we had satellite Internet, but for
now we didn’t download ice charts as these are large files. After last year's
sail "Lady Dana 44" through the Northeast Passage to Vancouver
Richard paid astronomical satellite Internet charges and phone bill. We were
using this new technology technique with some restrictions, but without
exaggeration, that is to say, where normally we were calling and briefly talk
to our families. As we were closer to the ice packed places we would download
ice charts from net, and analyze ice charts. GRIB, i.e. wind maps Richard
was pulling almost every day, even
though this estimate gave situations for 7 days ahead, however, they were often
updated with new information.
All the time we were sailing to the East and the last few days, also a bit to the South. Crossing many time zones. At this latitude, that is to say approximately 70 degrees North, each 15° of longitude, i.e. one hour time zone crossing, which represented some 300 Nm. As a result of this, I was ending my watch as usual at midnight, I observed that it is getting also darker, because every day the Sun was setting sooner. In addition, day by day, we were approaching fall and because of this also meant shorter day. Near Point Barrow, where we were less than three weeks before the Sun was setting behind horizon for a very short period of time and now we've had almost true, but a short night. On the open water with no ice, no problem, but the night navigation in ice strewn waters certainly was not easy.
As in the tropics
21 August, in the morning, as usual, about 8 in the morning I walked out to my watch. Arctic view wowed me. I felt like in the "tropics". Although the air temperature was around 7° C, but beautiful sun was shining, the sky was without any clouds and moving with weak wind from the stern. It probably was the prize of Neptune for the earlier storms. My watch this time was not in the dodger with fogged windows, I was lying in front of those windows, "warming up" in the sun. Even I thought of an essential sun screen, which I did not bring on this Arctic expedition. Wee were sailing on Autopilot, therefore, no one had to think about. With such warm weather, it was a perfect opportunity for the two crew members to get haircut. The captain went first with overgrown hair festivity followed by Les. Meanwhile, on both sides of our course, we passed small islands the distance easily visible edges on the right of the continent of North America and on the left Victoria Island.
Cambridge Bay
22
August, in the morning a bit of clouds were
covering the sun while it was dry and pleasant in the cockpit. On board was
some stir, because we were approaching Cambridge Bay. As always, prior to any
to port entry, questions how and what will be there? What's waiting for us,
etc. Cambridge Bay is the largest city in the Canadian Arctic, but the harbour
is in the name only, because it is only in a small bay with one small dock and
nothing more. About 2 Nm before entering I called the harbour by VHF. For such
conversation by radio Richard usually appointed the task for me. Maybe because
I have a lot of experience with the microphone, or as I am a "local"
Canadian, fluent in English. From early school days I'm the Ham operator.
During the call, Richard was busy
maneuvering approach to the harbour. This time the conversation was not so
interesting. On my question about the local conditions in the harbour and the
possibility of mooring to a jetty I did not get any specific answers.
Richard was busy maneuvering and did not
hear what they said and asked me what they said?.
With little enthusiasm, I responded and to
put it mildly, they told us that we would have to cast anchor off shore,
because the dock for the next day would be busy for a local event.
Immediately after mooring at dock civilian
appeared and identified himself as being from the Federal Police. He confirmed
what I had previously heard on the radio and asked if he could come aboard the
yacht. He was not in the officer uniform and therefore, after the entering the
boat he showed many of his official identity cards. Richard looked on without
much interest and I later asked whom he actually represents, whether he is the
RCMP (Royal Canadian Mounted Police), as not clearly represented before. He said
that Yes, he is an officer of the RCMP, but probably did not use this name, as
seeing the "exotic" rarely seen in these waters a Polish flag, he
thought, that we did not know the Canadian names. He appeared to be a novice.
We began the official, but cordial and pretty good conversation. He explained
to us what to expect in Cambridge Bay. It turned out that he is also a sailor,
but sails only on small regatta boats. He was interested in sailing and our
plans.
It was a Friday and the town began some
cultural events and the dock was getting busy. We got permission to stay at the
dock until 18:00 and then we should move to the anchor for a day. Then we could
go back and moor to the dock. On board we had a dinghy to get ashore during
stops at anchor, but it was not prepared for easy use. You need to assemble
many things, and still a lot of steps to get to shore. Yachts in America and
other parts of the world, usually have a dinghy so prepared, and you can easily
use them, because it is essential in such areas. European yachts are geared
more to sail from port to port with piers and quays.
For us the most important thing was the
fuel, which although we had a lot in tanks. Certainly it would be enough for us
to Greenland, but as usual, it's better to have more not to have issue
somewhere else where anyone can prove to be difficult to refuel. Station was
close at the dock and quickly began action ferrying canisters. I ran to the
computer to look for Internet access. As indicated by the RCMP officer the
hotel refused me to use their networks, on the grounds that they have a lot of
guests and the net is very slow and sluggish. The hotel employee told me the
public library where the net is. I got there and I got a free of charge
password to login, but unfortunately the net, too, was so weak and they told me
not to log on to Skype, etc.
Actually, it turned out that the net was
very weak everywhere. I managed to only insert the page the last report, but
any other image could not be loaded. I had prepared several interesting photos
from our trip, especially with storm showing how deck was being swelled by
storming waves. I made them with my waterproof camera. I stood in the cockpit
and from the position above filming some of the waves passing through the
entire deck and then crashing onto my camera.
I haven't had much time to explore the
town, only I did some pictures and movie clips. We should stay here a little
longer, but the inability to moor at dock and disability of dinghy, discouraged
us. In Cambridge Bay we planed to stay a little longer and await further ice
information, because in critical straits ice still was not allowing the
crossing.
Yachts sailing through the Northwest Passage, both from the East and the West in various places in the anticipation of a melting ice were standing still. At Gjoa Haven, yachts sailing from the west similarly like us, were waiting for the opening of the passage. We still had more than 200 Nm without the ice to Gjoa Haven. Victor Wejer from Toronto gave us a message that these yachts have already started sailing as the ice began to melt. It was probably the main reason for confirming the decision not to wait and go right out on our way. We are not tourist but on an Arctic expedition and the main objective is to cross the NWP. After 4 hours of “parking” in Cambridge Bay we went on.
23 August, at 8:00 am going to watch I saw so smooth water that can only be compared to some inland lakes in windless weather. In turn, 12 hours later, by start of the evening watch, white thing appeared on the horizon. At the beginning, it seemed that it might be a “mirage”, but the glow of the setting sun approaching clearly showed the ice field. At the beginning we passed single ice floes, but after the sun set, it began to be more and more dense, which we were dodging without major problems. Before midnight it got pretty dark and we had to look really hard for the obstacles. On one of the floes which we passed very close, we saw seal that was laying on the ice. It looked at us and without interest hugged its head into the ice, as nothing happened. A bit further on the much larger ice, as befits its size, lay a bigger seal, but this one was scared of our presence and it lazily slid rearward into the water. During the night we sailed through not so easy the Simpson Strait.
Gjoa Haven
24 August, on Sunday at noon, we casted anchor at Gjoa Haven. This is a small town much smaller than Cambridge Bay. It is located on the shores of the small Bay to which entrance is marked by range beacons, next to which is the place of memory of Roald Amundsen.
Gjoa Haven streets are broad gravel roads, since there is no need for anything better. For the better part of a year everything is covered with light snow unfortunately, during short summer period passing vehicles create a lot of dust and the rain makes them muddy. Snowmobiles during summer are not used. Almost every house there, has two types of vehicles, for winter and summer. Houses are built of wood and are small, each one usually occupied by a lot of family members from several generations. This was due to a large population growth, the largest in Canada. Therefore, there is the problem of housing. Gjoa Haven has population of approximately 1400 people, mostly Inuits.
The most distinguished building is the
medical clinic and social care center. Social assistance is the main income
source of the local Inuit population as there are no regular jobs and the
Canadian Government takes care of its citizens. Wondering around the town we
went to the local Catholic Mission Church. It turned out that Father Luke
Zajac, Oblate from Poland, is the administrator and the only Catholic priest in
the town. It supports three missions in the surrounding Inuit settlements.
He immediately invited us to his parish,
which is located in the building of the Church, behind the altar. Father Luke,
31 comes from Deblin, Poland serving 4 years of priesthood. Came to the Arctic
a year ago and he is a treasure of information about the life and habits of the
local population. Thanks to his kindness I was able to log my computer to his
website and to relay the latest information on our Web Site.
It turned out that he is not the only Pole
in the town. In the only local hotel, works a Polish lady named Marzena, she
has been in Canada almost 40 years and she came with her husband to work. Also
in the village lives Zofia, she is the Head of Accounting for Social Housing
Department.
In the evening, we invited Father Luke and Marzena with her husband for dinner on the yacht. Nice conversation and singing to the accompaniment of the guitar by Daniel, continued until the late hours. After midnight we rafted Marzena with her husband back to shore and Father Luke stayed on the yacht for the night.
25 August, in the morning we ate breakfast together, and then got to the shore by dinghy. The ice situation ahead still was not good. The two yachts that laid ahead in Gjoa Haven have proceeded, but again waiting in the nearby bays for the opening of the ice. Not melting, but more on their breaking and moving under the influence of wind and sea currents. The situation was not good, but everyone was optimistic about it we waited the whole time analyzing all of the information.
It was our second day in Gjoa Haven. Again
used dinghy to get on to shore. Then one by one or in groups and explored the
places. Most of the time I spent with Father Luke in the church where I had
good access to the Internet and could, fulfill the relays of our adventure.
Also walked around the town, and came to the hill with a view of the entire Bay
where there is a monument commemorating the Roald Amundsen, who spent two
winters here, 1903-1905 during his historic journey through the Northwest
Passage. September 6, 2003, the 100th anniversary of this event is posted here,
a commemorative plaque with the information and photographs of this historic
event.
Strolling around I noticed that local
Inuits are very keen on chatting. It was a pleasure to talk to them. My primary
question toward them was if they prefer the winter? or summer ? Regardless of
age, they all unanimously answered that they prefer the winter, because it's
easier for them to move around on a snowmobile on frozen ice and land. When
asked why, they could not be specific.
The analysis of ice charts didn’t look too interesting. Toward our way, about 60 Nm North of Gjoa Haven, ice field didn’t break. At the shores the ice chart showing a little less ice. Richard decided to sail and possibly stay at anchor in the bays in front of the ice field. Forecast of the wind South East gave the chances of moving ice and open up some slots giving the possibility of crossing. At 16.00 we weighed the anchor and moved on.
Ice fields
26
August, In the morning we crossed a small ice
field, and briefly saw ice free water, but soon after the impenetrable ice
ridge appeared on the horizon. Near the shore, ice free was visible. We
anchored in Oscar Bay at a depth of about 10m. wind and tidal current clearly
moving the weight of the ice. First, further away from the boat, showing a
large brash closing on boat. One of them fairly bulky approached the boat and
there was a decision to weigh the anchor. Unfortunately, the anchor was already
under the great weight of the ice. All aboard got onto the deck and started
repulsion with bamboo ice poles which we had for such eventuality. Maneuvering
engine and streaming rudder while pushing with poles we managed to get out. As
we sailed to another location, where the ice was less and again we anchored.
27
August, in the morning the wind abated, but fog
appeared. The Ice Field was pushed away from the shore and showed up clean
water without obstacles. We restarted forward. Had to strain the eyes. The
radar did not show anything, but we knew that the ice was there and not missing
and actually emerged from the mist. We steered clear of its heading to the
shore. Unfortunately, we reached the shallows, and there was no end of ice
field. There was no choice and we headed back to circumnavigate this field. It
turned out that the ice all the time was moving and where it was not before.
Ice field around "Lady Dana 44" began to thicken and the result has
completely closed on all sides. Pushing with ice poles did not help much. Each
engine action forward or back resulted in scraping ice, often with a big bang
echoing Majesty of the Arctic. On the ice it was a red smudging paint from
bottom of the boat. This was giving
impression of injuring a whale. Understanding the seriousness of the
situation, no one complained. After all, no one has ever told us earlier that
the Northwest Passage would be easy and now it turns out that it's true.
We stood in a field of ice. We started to
hove with the ice, to the back where we came from, because the current had
changed direction and yesterday's SE wind already diminished. It took a while
before something began to move on the water, and with great difficulty we left
from this trap to more open water. Maneuvering between ice, slowly we moved
toward desired direction.
Sitting in the cabin and especially lying
in the bunk each scrape of the ice caused a great impression. The sound of the
engine was a measure of the situation. When you hear the engine maneuvering:
releasing, forward, backward or rudder, this meant that deck watch was fighting
with ice. By contrast, listening to even the rhythm of the engine was a relief,
because it meant we sailed in smooth water without ice, at least for a short
time before again heard rubbing of ice. By evening, all the time we were
maneuvering in ice field. For the night we wanted to cast anchor in the nearby
bay, but there was no choice, as the ice was getting denser. As long as there
was good visibility, maneuvering between ice, was possible at low speed without
haste, because about 30 Nm in front of us ice charts showed the color red that
meant ice not for crossing.
 |
| Tuks at work |
 |
| In James Ross Str. |
28 August, at 9 o'clock in the morning we pushed on. At the beginning it was hard to get out of the dense fields of ice, but we managed. Maneuvering in the ice we pushed in the right direction. Andrew climbed onto the mast and spotted that the shore line has the ice free waters. Ice laid in strips. At the shore was clean, then a long tongue along the shore and then clean water area, to which we're approaching just emerging from dense ice fields.
Suddenly to our amazement, we saw a fast
moving small motor boats. The view was unusual in that it would seem like a
deserted place. Motorboat with two Inuit’s clearly motored toward our directions,
because undoubtedly we were for them the attraction. We all ran out on the deck
with cameras. Conversation ensued, from where, to where, where is the ice etc.
As often happens in similar situations, there has been some trade, we got the
big fish, Arctic Char, the very priced which Les immediately prepared for
dinner. Transfer the fish to the boat that we traded was held with adventure.
Inuit took out a fish from the box, which he set above the side of his rocking boat. While handing over the fish by hand to Richard, the box fell overboard. This was the reason for the quick goodbyes, because the Inuits immediately left us and went to rescue their box full of fish. We approached the shore where there was smooth water, with no ice and quickly moved further towards the Bellot Strait. In the afternoon, we sailed along the banks with no ice. We were happy, but at the same time surprised, because earlier ice charts showed Bellot Strait distant approach with ice not possible for crossing. Richard pulled from the Internet the new ice chart that showed much improved mood to the crew. It turned out that the we had the clean water from the ice, but SW wind changed to the North and we again began tacking into the wind.
Bellot Str. and Fort Ross
29
August, in the morning as we were approaching the
Bellot Strait we saw on our AIS (Automatic Identification System) the many
boats on the water as for the local occurrences and our experience of almost a
month's trip was a major event. So an unusual movement on the water was the
result of the fact that it was on that day the Bellot Strait opened the
possibility of passing the gate to Atlantic. For a change of my morning watch
on radio I called the nearby vessel seen on AIS. I asked them if they were
sailing through the Bellot Strait and what ice conditions they saw. He said, up
to the Straight it was ice free while the Strait had quite a lot of it but
manageable.
According to earlier information from
Victor Wejer of Toronto, who monitors the transits through the Northwest Passage,
we knew that out of 23 boats, which were reportedly going to do the NWP
crossing, only 8 were. The rest retreated, or postponed the plan for the
following year. Of these eight, four were heading West and waited in front of
the entrance to the Bellot Strait. Four, including ours were heading East. We
were at the front, because the other two decided to wait out at Taloyoak for
more favorable ice conditions as we managed to break through the ice in James
Ross and Larsen, in which we were drifting the previous night and it gave us an
advantage. Those sailing behind us to the East, were “Empiricus” (USA) with
Jesse & Samantha Osborn and Canadian "Altan Girl", in which the
single handed sailor navigated by Erkan Gursoy, Canadian of Turkish descent.
The last of four was at distant Cambridge Bay “Philos” (AUS) at that time who
later got to Gjoa Haven. Waiting out the gale winds for some 10 days and
returned to Cambridge Bay to winter as everything around was already freezing
up.
For all boats in the area where we were, it
was the most critical point, and that's why as soon as Bellot opened up the
massive transit happened.
The region of Bellot Strait is an imaginary
boundary separating water oceans: Atlantic and Pacific, because this usually
depends on whether the boats will sail on, or will be wintering, or return back
to their point of origin.
About 25 Nm in front of the Strait, as the
parade we've seen in haze three yachts emerged from those who have been waiting
on the other side of the Strait. Richard called them on VHF. It was a typical
short conversation, what ice conditions did they encounter?, what kind of ice
conditions did we see and, exchange of mutual wishes of good navigation, etc.
First, from our port side in haze we saw 60
ft. British schooner "Novara" with Stephen Brown. Shortly after, to
our starboard we passed red hull of the boat also British "Arctic
Tern" sloop 45 ft. with Ali and Les Parson.
12 Nm before the entrance to the Bellot
passed the boat "Gjoa" (former name of "Asma"), 13 m aluminum
sloop. We went to the Strait and as expected to beat ice, but it was nothing
compared with our earlier experience with the ice. We all ran out on deck with
cameras. It was a great event, because like the Panama Canal, the Bellot
Strait. also divides Pacific from the Atlantic, as other places to the North,
are rarely used in crossing the Northwest Passage.
We have not seen for a long time the high
rocky shore, because shores in the Arctic, Alaska, and Canada are very low and
are not covered with anything. The navigation was peaceful, but it required a
bit of a maneuvering between floes and showed a longer stretches of ice free
water. We passed the most northerly point of American continent. Further, only
islands and eternal ice to the North Pole.
At 20:30 we anchored in Depot Bay at Fort
Ross. There are no buildings other than historical huts built by Hudson’s Bay
Company.
Fort Ross is an uninhabited former trading post in the Qikiqtaaluk Region of Nunavut, Canada. Founded in 1937 it was the last trading post to be established by the Hudson’s Bay Company. Situated on the Bellot Strait at the southeastern end of Somerset Island, it was operational for only eleven years as the severe ice conditions rendered it uneconomical and difficult to access. This left the island uninhabited. The former store was recently refurbished and strengthened, and is still used as a shelter by Inuit caribou hunters from Taloyoak, and as a refuge for researchers and small boat passing through.
A Norwegian tug boat "Tandeberg Polar" was anchored in the middle of the Bay towing the pontoon and equipment for the extraction of wrecks. From the tug, boat of a small boat motored toward us with two people. Had a brief talk. It turned out that this is a tug was to sail to Cambridge Bay in order to raise the historic ship "Maud" of Roald Amundsen, which lays at bottom of the bay, but in large part protruding from the water. After first in the history crossing the Northwest Passage (1906), Amundsen set out on another expedition to Arctic in 1918 in the newly built ship "Maud". “Maud” sailed in the Arctic for several years, but was sold by the Amundsen and the next few years sailed in those waters until its sinking. Currently, the wreck is the attraction of Cambridge Bay. Unfortunately while we visited Cambridge Bay we didn't have the opportunity to visit this historic wreck.
The Norwegians authorities arranged
ownership of the boat with federal government. Getting back to Norway the ship
"Maud" is a big project lasting already a few years, this ship is to
be exhibited at the Nansen Museum yard in Oslo. This year this tug boat sailed
with the crew to raise the wreck to the surface of the water. In winter, the
wreck suppose to dry out in the Arctic climate and the following season will be
towed to Norway. At the moment it is not yet certain which route they will take
either through Russian Arctic, or across the Atlantic. It will depend on
obtaining the relevant permits.
We have invited these two Norwegians to
"Lady Dana 44" for our evening party, celebration of the passage to
the Atlantic side. After the passage of the Bellot Strait, we can assume that
ice will not stop us and we will be able to achieve our goal of crossing
Northwest Passage.
Our guests talked a lot about their project they said that in a few days, they may get the Canadian authorities permit to continue sail with such an unusual mission. Conversations, watching film of last year's passage of "Lady Dana 44" through Northeast Passage and the vocals with guitar, lasted until late into the night.
30
August, at 8 in the morning I went out on anchor
watch. Beautiful sun was shining and from the bay the current carried large
brash passing the yacht on both sides.
On AIS noticed something showing up, before
I could identify on the plotter screen what it was it I saw the mast of a boat.
I got on deck and noticed something sailing in our direction, it was the
Australian yacht "Drina" ketch 55 ft. long led by Michael Thurston.
Yacht "Drina" sailed very close to "Lady Dana 44" and the
first words out of his deck I’ve heard a congratulations for crossing the
Northwest Passage. I thanked him and wished them the same. After a brief
conversation, without stopping they rushed to the Bellot Strait. For brief time
they got stopped by the Norwegian tug boat.
Our yesterday’s guests offered us transport
to shore on their large aluminum boat, as pumping our dinghy would be more
labor intensive.
On land, there are only two small historic
buildings remaining, which were built by the Hudson Bay Company. Once the
company has developed its activities on these Arctic areas, stretching from
Alaska to Greenland and now the only these two houses remained at this location
as the monuments of ancient history. One of them is now a cult place for
passing yachts. Entrance doors, for protection against polar bears, are
barricaded with wooden logs. To enter, you must first remove these logs and
leave aside. Then you can just open the door and go inside. The inside is set
up like a cottage for trappers. There are beds for sleeping, stove, oil, some
food supplies for visitors. On the walls, on the boards around bunk beds and
everywhere, there are commemorative inscriptions, often with interesting
drawings, here they were. Easily found the subtitles yachts:
"Nekton", and "Stary", that was in 2006, and the yacht
"Katharsis" in the year 2012.
Of course, we wrote our entry on the wall, with a list of our entire crew.
Ice field again
31
August, in the morning all around the water looked
like on the lake, could not see any, even the slightest wrinkles on the water
from the wind. The same way in the skies, no clouds. You might say, perfect beach
weather, only that the air temperature of +2°C. Before noon, more and more ice
began to appear on the water. Ice floes as seen in the sun blinking different
colours. Mast and rigging of the boat gave a very interesting shadows on
passing white surfaces of the ice floes. In the Arctic sun shines at a very low
angle, and because the shadows of the mast extends at very far from its side of
the boat.
We got into dense ice field. We didn’t see where we should go, everywhere around only ice. It was time for breakfast, so we stopped in drifting ice and quietly ate. After breakfast, Andrew stepped up on the mast and tried to find cleaner water. It did not look good, but slowly we moved all the time rubbing out and maneuvering in the ice.
In the afternoon we maneuvered out of the
ice. This field had a bit of a different look than those we saw previously,
first and foremost, it was a lot thicker with more impressive bergy bits. On
the water between the ice bergs, it was the sort of grease or slush. It was the
new ice forming during the night’s lower temperature. During the day it would
melt, while a few cooler days would create a new ice again, which would not be
penetrable. It was a sign of the end of the short Arctic summer and the
upcoming winter. We had hoped that this probably was the last ice on our route.
In Lancaster Sound and off the coast of Greenland we did not anticipate seeing
any ice fields, but rather mostly icebergs. We managed to break through the
worst route exactly on time. Two yachts sailing behind us not yet sailed the
Bellot Strait and it was not known if they would give up their continuation.
From our Polish friends, who followed the route of our crossing, our sailing through the red color the on ice charts was imaginary solid impassable ice bringing the witty reflections, that we went through the ice fields with a help of a imaginary balloons that would lift us? While some yachts sailing in previous years through the Northwest Passage, used the icebreakers help, but balloons, probably no one has thought of that. It might be worth to patent the invention for the future? This joke made us laugh. In the evening, we were approaching the Lancaster Sound and watched a beautiful looking high cliffs. The setting sun gave very long shadows of mountains, which lent the color in the annex toward raw Arctic sculpture. The SW wind pushed us in the intended direction.
Lancaster Sd.
1 September at 01:15 (5:15 GMT) we reached northern most point of our cruise: 73°53’ N / 086° 21’ W. In the morning it was wonderful to sail in Lancaster Sound, west winds were blowing with the force of about 5° Beaufort. Using only the main sail and favorable current, we were moving with rowdy seas at a speed of more than 8 knots.
On our approach to the Navy Board Inlet, which leads to Pond
Inlet, our end of Canadian waters crossing, we saw the first real big icebergs.
Joseph, who navigated the West Greenland waters before, repeatedly consoled us
that this would not be the only large berg we'll see on our tour, but in any
case our cameras and cameras have been in use. At Strait we were watching
stunning views of the glaciers tongs up to the sea level.
They looked very similar to those I saw many times during voyages on my own boat "Varsovia" during my southeast Alaska and Prince Williams Sound voyages. The only difference is that here you don't see any vegetation, only harsh Arctic climate. Under one of the glaciers we saw a large French cruise ship, which, after viewing session for passengers on the glacier, headed in our direction. We were probably the next attraction for the passengers. Soon afterwards we heard the call from that vessel on VHF radio. In a brief conversation, Richard answered their questions and said that we head from Poland to Poland around the North Pole. Our caller from the ship received it with great interest. Certainly repeated it to its passengers, as an interesting curiosity in this very remote region of the world. At the end of the interview, asked if everything is fine with us and wished us a good and secure sailing. The temperature of the water overboard already reached 2.2°C, a little bit low for our desalinator to normally work properly. For several days we didn’t have any fresh water shower, therefore Richard decided that we will try to make some clean water. For compulsory bathing no one had to be persuaded, and an instant line upformed. It turned out that the water came out pretty good even for drinking and we filled up our tanks.
Pond Inlet – Farewell to Canada
2
September, morning we anchored at Pond Inlet. This
is a small settlement of about 1600 inhabitants. For us it was the last place
in Canada to visit and for those who sail through the Northwest Passage from
East to West is usually the first place where you can get border clearance. In
Canada, there is a need only to check entry, you do not have to report anything
upon leaving. Just reduced red tape, as surely the competent authorities knew
about us and had "the eye", on where and what we were doing.
Unmistakable confirmation of this
appearance of a Canadian Navy Destroyer with the number "700" on the
hull, which constantly hovered near shore and patrolled the entrance to the
Strait, which is the entrance to the territory of Canada and a place for us to
leave that country.
The morning after good sleep we inflated
our dinghy and in turn we went ashore. We had many volunteers willing to row.
Daniel all the time lamented that the yacht gives few opportunities to exercise
and rowing suited him well, so good few times had the chance to row the
distance between the boat and the shore. We landed on shore at 11 and it was
discovered that the town was still asleep, only the tourists' information at
Parks Canada office was open. I went inside, of course, I took off my rubber boots,
because such footwear is necessary to use during excursion pontoon to shore.
The streets are not paved and walking is on sand, or mud, if it rains and
during winter on snow. For this reason, in all public buildings notes are
posted to remove the shoes. Usually for shoes the shelves are provided and
chair for sitting.
Lady at information welcomed us very
kindly, her interest was in our trip, questioning me a lot and was surprised
that such a small boat as ours was able to accommodate seven people. In Canada
on yachts of this size typically have smaller crew, mostly single mature
couples. I said that this boat looks small, because standing at anchor far away
from the shore, but it is 47 feet long and 7 people are comfortably
accommodated. We had enough comfort, shower with hot water, 4 cabins, etc. She
became convinced, especially after my note about the shower and fresh water
from desalinator with virtually no restrictions.
From her information, I learned what was in
town are where, and I got the map, unfortunately, like everywhere on our tour
was the problem with Internet access. The only place with a public access to
the Internet was in the public library, which opens at about 1 pm. Very nice
info as she tried to call and check other places where I could possibly benefit
from the net, but to no avail.
Mobile phones in Pond Inlet did not work.
In the previous little places at least there were some phones with a network,
but the lock was only for emergency services. Even though my cell phone was
bought in Vancouver, Canada, it also would not work. I am writing this, because
many readers from Europe cannot imagine how cell phone grid operates in America
and other parts of the world.
I went to explore the town. I visited the school in the hope that it might allow me to use the Internet, but also no luck. At a local hotel, nothing, as the front door was locked, the hotel personnel went to pick up guests, since a plane just landed.
The Airport in Pond Inlet has only one small
gravel runway. A small plane, maybe for about 30 passengers, was the only one
around the airport. The airport terminal has a little hut, because no one stays
there permanently.
Along the way, I had a short chat with the
local residents, asking them my recurring question, whether they prefer the
winter or summer? I heard the same answer as elsewhere in the Arctic, they all
prefer the winter, but as usual without specific justification. Only later in
the library, the Librarian of Scottish decent, with whom I spoke on the
subject, said that the reason for this may be that in the summer to travel, you
need boats with engines, which are more expensive than snowmobiles to operate.
Sailing season lasts for about two months, so residents do not want to pay to
have the boats since snowmobiling can be used through most of the year.
Before 13:00 I came to the library, which
was still closed, but a small museum in the same building was already
opened with an exhibition about the life
of the local population, their costumes, historical photographs, etc. There
were also stuffed birds, animals, and a
scene of dressing the dead polar bear. All of this was in the small room, while
very interestingly displayed.
Internet Library opened after 13:00 and
finally I sat down at the computer. Unfortunately, the network was so poor that
only I could only open my in-box, but sending an e-mail turned out to be
impossible. Again Skype came in handy, by which I could send another message
and amazingly even 22 photos. Very slow process but I finally managed to upload
the message and picture to Halina Nadolska. She was editing our expedition Web
Site. Upon receiving those pictures she commented that "Lady Dana 44"
looked like an icebreaker.
She also sent congratulations to the
captain and crew of the "Lady Dana 44" and from Wojtek Jacobson, who
30 years earlier sailed the same route the NWP from West to East and now is the
Arctic navigation expert.
Cpt. Jacobson wrote, that it may still be
early for congratulations, but getting to Pond Inlet is already a big
accomplishment in conquering the Northwest Passage, however the full crossing
of the Polar Circle is needed, to which we had a few hundred nautical miles to
go.
At 15:55 we weighed the anchor and assisted by a Canadian warship number "700", who only watched the us without any contact, we went through the Strait, taking a course for Greenland.
Baffin Bay
3
September, One month since our starting point from
Nome, Alaska. Behind us storms, ice fields and over 3,000 Nm, but it still
wasn't the end of it, as we were continuing.
Baffin Bay welcomed us with weak and
variable winds. Initially, we had chosen a course to the island of Disco with a
view of the entrance to Ilulissat. This is one of the most interesting places
in Greenland, where glaciers calf big icebergs drifting toward open Atlantic.
We were very interested in visiting this place.
Unfortunately, analysis of wind conditions meant that we had to change our plans. That would delay us a few days and wind forecasts suggested a quick sail to the South. GRIB showed for the next few days, moderate winds then weakening and later, unfortunately against storm surges from the South. In this situation, we have changed course to the South to a distant yet about 700 Nm Nuuk, the Greenland capital (former name of Godthab).
4
September, following day opened with North winds at
speeds sometimes exceeding 10 knots. We set the jib sail on spinnaker boom on a
butterfly, it was a great sailing. We had to be wary of large icebergs, which
passed at a fair distance away but it was a pity that we were unable to spare
the time to get closer to them in order to take photos. During my morning
watch, the satellite phone rang. The editor from TVN24, wanted to learn
something more about our trip, as news arrived early to Poland about our NWP
crossing. I called Richard, who
responded to her questions and generally summed up our journey.
The following days were similar, only there
were fewer and fewer icebergs. Wind abated a little to variable directions so
we had to use the help of the engine. At times the opposite current impeded and
slowed our nudge forward.
The temperature of the water overboard increased and problems with fresh water desalinator were over and the water could be used without restrictions, but with some common sense. A bath in the shower and washing dishes in the warm water, probably every sailor knows what it means.
6 September, in the Davis Strait, we encountered big waves and despite weak wind, the yacht began to swing in all directions. We had a lot of work and tries with setting the sails.
Arctic Circle – Northwest Passage Achieved
7
September, at 2:15 the great event occurred. We
approached the Polar Circle, crossing, which is the official completion of the
crossing the Northwest Passage. That is, sailing from the Arctic Circle on one
Ocean to the other Ocean, regardless of which way it sails. I finished my watch
by 24:00 and I was already asleep in my bunk, but Richard woke all of us up
and announced that we needed to
report on deck to celebrate the Crossing of the Arctic Circle. Not everyone
came on deck. Captain Richard, the watch
meaning Daniel, Joseph, and myself shot a salvo of honor from the rifle.
I took out a bottle of champagne the deeply
hidden for this occasion and drank together, not forgetting, of course, about
the Neptune. Yet for many years not drinking the alcohol, I have not had an
alcoholic drink in many years, yet on this occasion I moistened my mouth in the
noble drink.
We only had to Nuuk about 160 Nm. For me,
it meant the end of the expedition, since from this port I would be taking the
plane to go back to my home in Vancouver, Canada. For the rest of the
colleagues it was a closing in the next important stage in the expedition
around the North Pole. It made me a little sad, as the yacht was already my
home to me, I had lived with friends and
suddenly will need to part to our civilized world. I could continue even
further, at least to Iceland, but strained Professional Affairs and plan in a
short time for next trip, this time to warm places, brought me back to
realities on land. Besides, it was not sure if "Lady Dana 44" will
sail to Iceland. May the winds and tight deadlines for the voyage would alter
plans and yacht would miss this island.
A Polish physician radiologist Zbigniew Moscicki, lives & works In Nuuk, he hosted the 2010 the crew of the yacht "Solanus" and was eagerly waiting for our visit. All the time he kept track on our website the progress of our crossing. I called him with the news that we are approaching. Zbigniew offered for me to stay at his home, because probably "Lady Dana 44" would quickly move on and air planes from Nuuk, do not fly every day in my direction. In the evening, during my last evening watch, was superb. Moderate breeze from the stern, warmer than usual and the full moon only added to the charm of the night under the stars.
Nuuk, Greenland – end of the Expedition
8 September, at the start of my morning watch, I saw quite different conditions. Although the wind out of the stern nicely pushed us ahead, but the fog raised and was bleak, so different from the previous evening.
At 14:00 local time we moored
in the port of Nuuk in Greenland. Soon after Zbigniew arrived to the yacht, and
took to the city Daniel, Joseph and myself. Along the way, we dropped off my
stuff at his home where I would stay until my departure to Vancouver. Then he
invited us over for dinner to the restaurant. After dinner, Mirek, a colleague
of Zbigniew, helped to deliver a big provision of supplies to the yacht.
In the evening, Zbigniew and his colleague, Ted and myself paid the farewell visit to the yacht. I said goodbye very cordially to my companions. I thanked Captain Richard Wojnowski for allowing me to participate in the sailing expedition, which was one of the biggest sailing cruisers in my sailing career. I disembarked, but adventure around North Pole continued.
Author: Jerzy Kusmider
Translated by: Victor Wejer
Edited and read proofed by: Anna Goralewski
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